I originally published this post a few years ago on my now defunct Wahlmünchnerin blog. BUT Sommerferien is breathing down our necks here in Bavaria and I thought it would be useful to reshare for those of you out there that are looking to go Camping in Bavaria and around Munich.
Why We Started Camping (And Why European Camping is Different)
Last summer, quite spontaneously, we decided to rent a camper van and see if it would be a good way to travel with a toddler and a dog.
I have to start out by saying that I’m not the most outdoorsy person in the world. In fact, in our self-written wedding vows, my husband promised not to make me go on any camping trips.
Yet, the camper van was partly my idea, with the caveat that we would stay within two hours of Munich so we could get back to civilization at a moments notice.
We picked three places: Adventure Camp Schnitzmühle in the Bayerische Wald (suggested by friends), Waldcamping at Brombach See (I saw a write up in HIMBEER Magazin about their Glamping options) and Camping in Bavaria at Pilsensee (I can’t remember how I found it, but I liked the fact that it was so close to the city we could take the S-Bahn there).
Before I get into it, I guess I have to also say that camping in Europe is just not as good as camping in North America. I’m talking drive in camping. There is just less space and/or Europeans are more comfortable being on top of each other than North Americans are.
My childhood memories of camping are at camp sites like these at Kings Canyon or Seqouia National Park, where yes, there were cars and it was nothing like being in the wild, but you had your own spacious little plot next to the parking space for your car.
Here you get packed in cheek to jowl. Basically, you’re in a parking lot. You kind of have to accept this fact going in when rating places. I’m still wrestling with it.
Adventure Camp Schnitzmühle: The Alternative Choice
Getting There
Getting to Schnitzmühle Campground from Munich is an easy and scenic drive of about 130 to 140 kilometers, taking roughly 1.5 to 2 hours by car. Simply head northeast from Munich via the A92 or A8, connect to the A3 toward Deggendorf, then follow the B11 and B85 through the Bavarian Forest to Viechtach. From there, signs will guide you to the campground, nestled in a peaceful riverside setting. It’s a straightforward route and a perfect weekend escape from the city.
What We Found
Since we didn’t plan and it was Ferien, we didn’t get a great spot. It was basically on the dirt road going through the campground right across from the bathroom/washing block.
However, after the horror of what we were doing settled in. I saw that this place had a lot to offer (especially if you get a spot right on the river). It had a kind of ‘alternative/indie/Norcal’ vibe. It’s right on the Regen river and is a favorite spot for people that like to Kayak and Canoe.
A special feature of Adventure Camp Schnitzmühle (though we didn’t get to experience it ourselves) special metal fire pits that you can use at your spot to have a campfire (not sure if this is at all spots though). Again, this is a standard feature of most U.S. campgrounds, but here it is a novelty.
Family Experience
Although it doesn’t actively cater to families, it seemed like a paradise for older kids. They were living summer to the hilt, riding their bikes all over the place, swimming, eating popsicles all the things that make summer great.
It was not so great for smaller kids, as evidenced by the rusty half abandoned playground, but our (then) 18 month old enjoyed nonetheless. However, there is a small swimming pond at the back of the grounds that’s great for all ages and was pretty dog friendly.
The Takeaway:
- I would definitely come back, but would try to get one of the spots on the river, ideally with friends. You can book spots and see availability online, which is great.
- The most anti-Spiesig camping ground we’ve encountered so far
- The food was pretty good
- Probably better with kids over 4
- The Bayerische Wald area is really great and really close to Munich, I want to explore it more.
Waldcamping Brombachsee: The Family Resort Experience
Driving from Munich to the Brombachsee camping area near Pleinfeld is an easy trip of about 145 kilometers, taking around 1 hour and 40 minutes by car. Just head north on the A9 toward Nürnberg, switch to the A6 toward Heilbronn, then exit for Gunzenhausen and Pleinfeld. From there, local roads and clear signs will lead you to the campsites along the shores of the Großer Brombachsee, perfect for a relaxing lakeside getaway.
The Setup
There are a lot of things I wouldn’t do and places I wouldn’t go before I had a kid. Case in point: Waldcamping at Brombachsee.
Himbeere magazine had a listing for places where you could go ‘glamping’ (my preferred mode of camping). The write up mentioned camping pods, sleeping barrels, troll huts, safari tents and bungalows as some of the glampy options. I put it down on my list of possible places to visit.
Alas we were on the road in a camper. Also, we had a dog. Dogs aren’t allowed in any of the glamping options. It still seemed like a place worth checking out, and it distance-wise it stuck to my rule of being (more or less) an hour away from Munich.
After our camping experience at Schnitzmühle, which wasn’t’ bad, but wasn’t great, I was ecstatic pulling into this place. It was totally geared towards families. In my pre-kid life I would have turned the camper around, pressed the petal to the metal and high-tailed it out of there.
Family Amenities
Not now. Baby changing stations everywhere! Wooded playgrounds! Kid activity hours! Clean shower blocks and even one that was a warm kiddie bath adventure area.
We lucked out and got a spot right by the playground.
Here’s the thing though. If you don’t get a good spot, you are, once again just camping in a parking lot. With these kinds of places, which are like most in Germany and Austria, one needs to give up the fantasy that you will be ‘away in nature’. You are mobile, yes – but not surrounded by wilderness. The advantage is the mobility and all of the amenities whatever campground or area has to offer.
And when it comes to amenities, Waldcamping in Brombachsee has loads. There are convenient beaches on the lake full of water options (paddle boats, sailing, etc.). You can rent those funny five person bike thingys, mini-golf, Spielplätze galore, forest walks, biking, horse back riding even a dog beach.
We visited again last spring with my husbands family (but stayed in the Hotel). I coined this area ‘The Bavarian Ozarks’. Here’s why. The Brombachsee is totally artificial, it’s a Stausee.
In 2000, in order to attract tourism it was created over a flood plain (just like the Ozarks). The area is not a powerhouse economically (Ozarks) and while family friendly and pretty, it’s not a sophisticated, developed region – you’ll be hard pressed to find really good food. It’s all ‘just okay’.
The Glamping Reality
What I would not consider is one of the clamping options. Not just because of the dog, but because they are kind of stupid. Like the ‘forest’ troll houses (surrounded by cars!)
In the brochures they look great, but just like with a camper, they are plopped in the middle of ‘the parking lot’. The Safari tents are right on one of the paved roads criss crossing the camping area. There was a circle of pods pas the tent area that would be cool if you could rent them all with a group. The* bierfässer* were also kind of secluded. The bungalows and gypsy wagons, forget it – you’ll have cars driving past you the whole time.
Below are pictures from the brochure, and then, the reality. Starting with the Gypsy wagons:
The safari tents:
The Campingfässe (barrels):
The group of camping pods in the tent area was kind of cool, though. This is a picture I took, no misleading-angle/cropping brochure trickery :
I think of this place as ‘all-inclusive’ camping. It’s a little Spießig, not at all wild, but the trade-off is really good infrastructure. You’ll have decide for yourself.
Head-to-Head: Which Sommerferien Bavarian Campground for Your Family?
For toddlers and young kids: Brombachsee wins hands down. The family amenities, baby changing stations, and warm kiddie bath areas make it much easier for parents of small children.
For older kids (4+): Schnitzmühle takes the lead. The freedom to bike around, the swimming pond, and the more relaxed atmosphere let older kids have real adventure.
For dog owners: Both work, but with different restrictions. Schnitzmühle is more dog-friendly overall, while Brombachsee has a dedicated dog beach but no dogs in glamping options.
For first-time campers: Brombachsee is the safer choice. The infrastructure and family focus make it less intimidating for camping newcomers.
For groups: Schnitzmühle if you can get river spots together; Brombachsee if you want to rent multiple glamping pods.
Final Thoughts for Munich Expat Families
We have generally thrown in the towel on the whole idea of camping. It’s just too much damn work. But I suppose I would consider going to Waldcamping at Brombachsee if I was with a big group, made sure we had a good spot and the weather was really warm.
As for Schnitzmühle, I would definitely come back, but would try to get one of the spots on the river, ideally with friends.
Are you a happy Bavarian camper? If yes, hit us up on our Instagram and share some tips!